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south georgia island's penguins

South Georgia Island Penguins and How To See Them

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South Georgia Island is home to four breeding species of penguins: King, Macaroni, Gentoo, and Chinstrap. The total population of penguins living on South Georgia is estimated to be in the region of 4 million breeding pairs across all species.

It’s no wonder that South Georgia Island penguins is one of the main reasons visitors make the intrepid journey to this remote island to witness some of the highest concentrations of wildlife on Earth.

In this article, I examine the four species of penguins living in South Georgia and offer advice on how to see them based on my knowledge of visiting the island. I highlight some of the best places to see penguins and answer some common questions.

Here is a quick overview of penguin populations in South Georgia:

  • South Georgia is home to an estimated 3 million breeding pairs of Macaroni penguins, the most common penguin. Unlike king penguins, Macaroni penguins nest on rocks, making them much more challenging to see.
  • An estimated 450,000 breeding pairs of King penguins live and breed on South Georgia in some of the largest colonies on Earth.
  • South Georgia is home to approximately 100,000 gentoo penguins that live on and nest on the island.
  • There are approximately 12,000 breeding pairs of Chinstrap penguins, making them the least common penguin on South Georgia.

South Georgia Island Penguin Species

King Penguins

king penguins in south georgia

King penguins are the most frequently sighted penguins in South Georgia. The good news is that they live all over the island, so if you visit South Georgia, you will likely see plenty.

King penguins are the second-largest species, after the emperor penguin, which is only found in Antarctica. An estimated 450,000 pairs of king penguins breed in South Georgia, making it one of the densest populations on Earth.

You can observe their breeding behaviour by visiting at different times during the summer months. It takes 14 months for an adult king penguin to raise its chick. Unlike other species, King penguins do not build nests; they incubate their eggs under a flap of skin above their feet.

How To See South Georgia’s King Penguins

South Georgia has over 30 king penguin colonies. The best places to see king penguins in South Georgia are Saint Andrews Bay and Salisbury Plain. Saint Andrews Bay has the largest population of King penguins in South Georgia, with an estimated population of 150,000 breeding pairs. Salisbury Plain is home to 60,000 pairs of King penguins.

Both are common landing sites for expedition cruises that visit the island and make fantastic stopping-off places for wildlife watching. King penguins are also seen in smaller Gold Harbour, Fortuna and Cooper Bay colonies.  

King penguin colonies are at their peak between November and January. I had previously visited in March, and there was still lots of activity and fluffy king penguin chicks.

Macaroni Penguins

South georgia island penguins

An estimated 3 million breeding pairs of macaroni penguins make them the most common penguin on South Georgia Island. However, although they are the most populous species, they are not the easiest to see. Unlike king penguins, which live on outwash plains and beaches, Macaroni penguins nest on cliffs, making them harder to see.

Macaroni penguins, named for their distinctive orange and yellow tufty eyebrows, take their name from hairstyles of the 18th century. They arrive in South Georgia to start breeding in late October. Egg laying begins two weeks later, in early November.

The macaroni penguin has the bizarre habit of laying two eggs, with the first much smaller. The first egg is then discarded, and a second larger egg is laid, which the adults incubate. Scientists studying macaroni penguins do not fully understand this behaviour.

How To See Macaroni Penguins In South Georgia

The only landing site on South Georgia where you can see macaroni penguins on the shore is Cooper Bay, where they live in the tussock grass.

I have visited Cooper Bay, and it is possible to carefully walk through the tussock grass to see the macaroni penguins close up. But be warned: the site has quite an interesting smell!

Cooper Bay is a popular landing site for expedition cruises located south of the island. Another option for seeing macaroni penguins is a Zodiac cruise around the steep cliffs at Elsehul.

Chinstrap Penguins

Chinstrap penguin in South Georgia Island

Chinstrap penguins are the least common penguins in South Georgia, with an estimated 14,000 pairs. The population of chinstrap penguins worldwide is estimated to be 8 million.

Chinstrap penguins are Antarctic penguins commonly found on the Antarctic Peninsula in vast colonies of up to 100,000 pairs. If your cruise is also visiting Antarctica, you will likely see a lot more chinstrap penguins there.

In South Georgia, a colony at Cooper Bay has the most northerly population of chinstrap penguins. They take their name from the marking of black feathers running under their chins.

Chinstrap penguins prefer to nest with pebbles as their nesting material. Egg laying begins in November, and the chicks will fledge by January. They feed on crustaceans and can dive up to 70 meters.

How To See Chinstrap Penguins In South Georgia

Although smaller in numbers, chinstrap penguins can be seen on any beach in South Georgia. Cooper Bay is the only landing site where you can see a colony of chinstrap penguins, which is visible on a Zodiac cruise around the bay.  

Gentoo Penguins

Gentoo Penguin South Georgia Island

South Georgia has a population of 105,000 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins. Like the chinstrap, Gentoo penguins are a more common sight in Antarctica.

Gentoos are distinguished by a brightly coloured orange beak. Gentoo penguins tend to nest inland and typically build their nests among tussac grass, which is abundant in South Georgia, unlike penguins in Antarctica, which use pebbles.

Gentoo penguins are not migratory and stay in South Georgia all year round. They are astonishing swimmers who can reach speeds underwater up to 22mph and dive to depths of over 200 meters in search of krill. They are known as the fastest swimming birds.

How To See Gentoo Penguins On South Georgia

Individual gentoo penguins can be seen on any beach in South Georgia, sometimes mixed with king penguins. Gold Harbour and Stromness are two landing sites that provide excellent viewing of nesting colonies.

When Is The Best Time To See Penguins In South Georgia?

The best time to see penguins in South Georgia is during the summer months between November and March, which is the main breeding season. Each month offers different wildlife highlights. King penguin rookeries are at the height of activity between November and February, but there is still a lot of activity in March.

To learn more about when to go, please see our guide, Best Time To Visit South Georgia.

Which Penguins Will I See On A South Georgia Cruise?

Penguins live throughout South Georgia, and it is almost impossible to land on a beach without seeing one. Whilst nothing is guaranteed on a cruise, you are likely to see king penguins and other species. As with any expedition cruise, shore landings are subject to weather conditions. I have never heard of someone visiting South Georgia and not seeing a penguin.

If you are interested in penguin watching in South Georgia, I advise choosing a smaller ship with a longer itinerary to maximise your time spent ashore penguin viewing.

What’s It Like Watching Penguins In South Georgia?

A Zodiac shore landing in South Georgia

For me, South Georgia is, without a doubt, one of the best places on Earth to see penguins in their wild and natural home. I have been lucky to have visited all the key landing sites on South Georgia, including St Andrews Bay, which is off the charts when it comes to wildlife viewing. The site of a colony of 100,000 king penguins is a highlight of any trip to South Georgia. Nothing else beats it.

It’s important to be mindful when visiting and not disturb any wildlife. Penguins in South Georgia are often curious, and if you wait a few moments, they will often approach you.

Whilst king penguins are the main attraction on South Georgia, the island is a haven for other wildlife, including fur seals and southern elephant seals that hang out on the sandy beaches.

Remember, Zodiac cruises on South Georgia can be quite wet if the wind picks up, so always wear the appropriate waterproof clothing.

If you are a wildlife photographer, you don’t need a telephoto lens for penguins, as the action is often near you.

How Can I Visit South Georgia Island?

South Georgia is a remote Subantarctic island in the Southern Atlantic Ocean accessible only by sea. The only way to visit is on an expedition cruise. At Polar Escapes, we specialise in travel to South Georgia Island and offer a range of small ship expert-led trips perfect for wildlife viewing.

Expedition cruises to South Georgia often sail via the Antarctic Peninsula, crossing the Southern Ocean or the Falkland Islands. It is also an excellent destination for penguin-watching.

Please see our South Georgia Cruises to search and book the largest expedition cruises to South Georgia Island.

To learn more about visiting South Georgia, please see our guide, How To Visit South Georgia.

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About The Author
Andy is the founder of Polar Escapes and has been exploring the polar regions for over 15 years. He draws on a wealth of first hand experience travelling in the Arctic and Antarctica in his writing. With over 20 expeditions under his belt he specialises in writing in-depth travel guides and articles to help others. He is passionate about small ships and sustainable travel.

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